magazine of perfumery art
David Hovhannisyan
Jul 25, 2023
From Gothic Perfumes to Personal Inspirations, A Perfumer's Journey of Artistry and Freedom
Step into the captivating world of renowned perfumer Angela Ciampagna as she shares her journey and artistic vision in an exclusive interview. Co-founder of the esteemed niche perfume brands Label and Angela Ciampagna, Angela's olfactory creations have left an indelible mark on perfume enthusiasts worldwide. With a distinct style characterized as "gothic," she intricately weaves rare raw materials and innovative techniques to craft olfactory jewels that resonate with contemplative ecstasy. From the enchanting landscapes of Tenerife to overcoming personal challenges, Angela reveals how her life experiences breathe life into each fragrance she formulates. Embracing sustainability and craftsmanship, she sheds light on the significance of responsible perfume-making in a world driven by mass consumerism. As Angela continues to collaborate on visionary projects, her advice to aspiring perfumers is infused with passion and perseverance. Join us on this fragrant odyssey as we delve into the artistry and allure behind Angela Ciampagna's captivating fragrances.
Can you tell us about your journey and what inspired you to become a perfumer?
This is a profession that is built over time and it requires method, dedication and commitment, and you never stop researching and learning. The world of perfumes is a very fascinating world, the universe of smells has attracted me since I was very young, but at the time I could not even imagine how rich and full of things to learn this sector is. My olfactory memory began to color my days from a very young age. Smells and perfumes have always moved me, they have always transported me to a deeper and more authentic space. Becoming a nose happened slowly, each step brought me closer and closer to this wonderful profession. My compositional style reflects a lot the events of my life and my inner world.
What motivated you to create your own niche perfume brands (with co-founder Enrico Maraffino) Label and Angela Ciampagna?
When the first Label perfumery laboratory was born in 2010, in a small village in central Italy, we produced on behalf of third parties, each job was a step for the company to grow and for us to grow as professionals. The history of the high perfumery laboratory Label is also the love story of me and Enrico Maraffino, my husband and Production Manager. Together we have always tried to give free space to experimental productions and without too many commercial compromises: creating our own brand that spoke about us was natural. From the outset, Label's goal was to create pure intellectual pleasure through olfactory jewels, combining unique and rare raw materials, innovative production techniques combined with ancient legacies taken from the perfume factories of the beginning of the century. We consider ourselves pure artisanal avant-garde.
Could you explain the concept behind your gothic perfumes and how they differ from traditional fragrances?
The style of our perfume house is often referred to as gothic. We actually agree with this definition: the Gothic style in architecture tends towards a verticality that produces a sense of tension towards the sky. We too play at thinning the olfactory pyramids so that they can give maximum splendor to the "more complex decorations". The aim is to use this olfactory virtuosity to show the compositional power and prestige of the raw materials selected by our perfume house.
What elements or ingredients do you often incorporate into your gothic perfumes to create a unique olfactory experience?
Obviously, like many noses, we too have "exclusive bases" that characterize us and which we repeat as an olfactory signature. Boswellia incense and smoky vintage notes are always present. Patchouli, sandalwood, sage, eucalyptus and a majestic flower are never lacking in the interweaving of ingredients that will form our high-end parfum.
How do you approach the creative process when developing a new fragrance for your brands?
For me it's about using a perfume formula to tell an intense moment in life, a new stage, an illumination. It is a sort of meditation, listening, reflection that is narrated and strengthened through the use of wonderfully deep and true fragrances.
Are there any specific challenges you face as a perfumer working within the niche fragrance market?
There's a lot of competition, it moves fast at the brisk pace of marketing demands. Our compromise is to move at the speed of thought, reflection, grace, research, emotion. Constantly improving ourselves according to our canons, because we like it that way, and not because we are asked to. For us, high perfumery is the continuous search for beauty, harmony, grace, idea.
What role does Tenerife play in your life and how has the island influenced your perfumery?
The nostalgic and vintage tone that characterizes us has been enriched with new vibrations, sounds, colors, smells, styles, passing from the Bel Paese to the exotic vibrations of the Canary Islands. Every change is an enrichment and every enrichment translates into new nuances and in this profession, vibration counts for a lot. The more you are stimulated, the more fun and complex the game becomes. Living in an archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic is magical, there are those who flee, for us it means lightening up to fly even higher.
Could you share any insights into the connection between your personal life in Tenerife and the scents you create?
In the last four years many things have happened here in Tenerife that have marked us. As a perfumer, when I formulate, I always put my world inside, my mood, what happens to me and whether it's the loss of a loved one like a mother or a new awareness that makes one evolve, all of this is transformed into a formulation . This year I also faced and won a great battle, the one against cancer and while I was sick waiting for my mastectomy, I completed the Virtus fragrance, obviously the vital charge of this perfume is powerful and each facets tells a dense and forceful experience . I like to get straight into the world of our ideal client, in a sort of dialogue that from our laboratory reaches his skin and spreads again and again from his skin. The unique biome will make the perfume something special, which will blend with the unrepeatable beauty of the single human being. Marvelous.
How do you balance the dark and mysterious aspects of gothic perfumes with creating wearable and accessible fragrances?
This is not a problem; in fact, we are not worried that our perfumes are for everyone. We do not work for an audience that seeks homologation, but for lovers of beauty, for seekers of exclusivity. For fans of uniqueness. For connoisseurs of excellence. And beauty must be educated, not debased.
Are there any signature scents within your Label and Angela Ciampagna collections that hold a special place in your heart?
Every perfume has a beautiful story behind it, for example: when we were in Abruzzo, our small perfume laboratory also had a company outlet and perfumery lovers became friends and in one of these meetings it happened that a lady asked us for create the perfume to celebrate the birth of her daughter, a peaceful and pure girl with red hair and ceramic skin. The first prototype of Lily & Tangerine by Label was born. Or Kanat, an extra de parfum with saline notes, saffron, almond, honey and magnolia created to reproduce the heat, humidity and perverse atmosphere of ancient underground tunnels at the foot of the ancient village of Atri (in the province of Teramo, in Italy), the place where our first factory was established. These cisterns have had various uses over the centuries. The Romans used them as corridors for channeling water, after them they were used as places of pagan worship and esoteric rites, still during the war they were used to hide deserters or weapons and more recently to keep secrets and fleeting appointments. Behind each perfume in the collection there are unique stories.
What kind of emotions or experiences do you hope to evoke in people when they wear your perfumes?
Contemplative ecstasy towards oneself. The parfum is an invitation to rediscover the pleasure and time for the ritual of celebrating ourselves. A good perfume manages to contrast the time we often spend demolishing ourselves, chasing the chimera of absurd performances.
How important is sustainability and eco-consciousness in your perfume-making process?
There are many contradictions and paradoxes inherent in the marked. I don't like to think that behind the green impulse there are often commercial, marketing and advertising strategies that exploit the environmental issue to their advantage. The theme of the environmental crisis is increasingly felt and is fought through responsible behavior, especially when it comes to large multinationals. The debate is very delicate. How can you imagine a family in a system of mass consumerism or a multinational that feeds on this model does more damage? To dismantle an unsustainable resource consumption model, it is first necessary to focus on the cornerstones and not on the details. If you risk bleeding, you certainly don't worry about the type of plaster, there are other operations essential to avoid the worst and, in these cases, time is of vital importance.
Can you discuss any upcoming projects or collaborations you are excited about?
As a house of artistic perfumes, we always have interesting orders: in this period, we are working for a client who is launching his own collection in Vietnam, and an Egyptian company who is creating his own Exclusive line, then there is a Polish brand which is developing a truly innovative candle and interior design project and last but not least we are developing the olfactory signature for the most prestigious hotel in the Canary Islands. By vocation and by how our production line is conceived, we only work for projects that have a visionary touch and the will to achieve superior quality. We are lovers of high craftsmanship and when we are passionate about a project, even if it doesn't bear our name, we develop it with extreme passion and attention to detail, so that it is not just a product, but good for the soul.
What advice would you give to aspiring perfumers who want to create their own niche fragrance brands?
Look for your own style, a style that stands out, have fun and go ahead. With commitment, perseverance and continuous study, all goals are achieved, even the most difficult ones.
Looking back at your career, what would you say has been the most rewarding aspect of being a perfumer and creating your own fragrances?
Freedom.
